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Wings of the Kite-Hawk Wings of the Kitehawk is published by Picador at $30 an extract
BushMag thanks Nicolas Rothwell for permission to
reproduce extracts from his new book, Wings
of the Kite-Hawk, a set of
linked journeys into the Outback, following the trails of past
explorers. Referring to the journal of one old pioneer, Rothwell calls
it “as much self-portrait as record of travel and topography” and
this is true of his own book too. Rothwell, a journalist for The
Australian newspaper, spent many years in Eastern Europe and there are
echoes of that haunting world in his contemplation of the desert. Rothwell says
he was drawn to the idea that “the landscape can bear the imprint, the
resonance of those who have gone through it before, that one can tune in
to their feelings and their thoughts”. Each chapter is a variation on
the theme of “European arrival, the collision of the Western eye with
a foreign landscape”. He says he wanted to “play off my own
experiences of this against those of three romantic explorers
(Leichhardt, Sturt and Giles) and also against those of three rock art
pioneers, each of whom, in his own fashion, sought to recreate their
dream-European homeland in the rocks of the Outback. I look back now and
see this pattern in the book: it begins with a very European eye and by
its end, it is largely at home in the Australian world and has come up
against the threshold of Aboriginal Australia.” In this
extract, the hero has just arrived in Mt. Isa:
“I
approached the town by dusk, at speed, straining to catch a glimpse of
its tall smelter chimneys against the last streaks of sunset, but all I
could make out when I drove in was the red lights that flash constantly
upon the smoke-stacks in the night. It was only in the morning, when I
checked out of my motel room, that at last I saw the town stretched out
before me, and, high on the hillside above it, the smelter buildings and
their cantilevers, the tailings dumps and ore stock-piles, the
exhaust-plumes spreading in the sky. There was something about the shape
and curve of the hill, about the picturesque confusion of its buildings,
that was familiar to me in a distant way. Not until I was walking up the
main street, navigating the town’s thickly-clustered system of
roundabouts, did I place the memory. It was of one particular castle:
Hunedoara, in Romanian Transylvania, the stronghold of Janos Hunyadi,
set amidst rich, ore-bearing mountains, where the communist authorities
had built a metallurgical complex I visited once, a kingdom of green,
billowing toxic clouds, deep excavation pits and funicular
ore-transports that passed like chairlifts just above the castle’s
courtyards and crenellated walls. So dear was
this fortress to the romantic intelligentsia of neighbouring Hungary,
for whom it represented the spirit of their eastern provinces, that it
was recreated in scale replica in the main park of Budapest, amidst duck
ponds and ornamental gardens, so that passing strollers would be
reminded of their heritage as they made their way towards Heroes’
Terrace and the Museum of Fine Arts. I allowed myself a little inward
smile at this memory: I could be confident, I decided, as I sat down in
the only coffee shop I found open so early in the morning, that no one
had drawn that comparison before. After some
minutes a middle-aged man with a distinct Central European accent came
to take my order. He had been born and brought up, he told me, in Deva,
an obscure Transylvanian town. Repelled and drawn at the same time by
the force of coincidence in life, I could not refrain from asking him if
he had ever been reminded of his homeland by Mount Isa; of Hunedoara
itself, for example, which I was careful to give its Magyar name. ‘I have made
the parallel often in my mind,’ he answered. ‘And perhaps now, with
all my family gone, that is the reason why I stay on here.’ Almost at once
he returned, bearing a plate of toast and a cup of coffee, which he laid
in front of me in ceremonious fashion before sitting down, folding his
arms, and giving a sigh: ‘If I tell you something of my story now, it
is not because I flatter myself at all that it may be of some vivid
interest to you – or that it will remain with you in your memory for
its own sake – but because, in a place like this, stories need to be
told, and told again. They need to stake their claim on life, you could
say, otherwise what do we have? My name is Szelenyi Sandor’ – he
showed me a laminated business card, and this, indeed, was the name that
figured on it in italic type – ‘I come, as I mentioned to you, from
Deva, it is true, but my background was mixed. My mother was a Romanian
woman, and my father was Hungarian by nationality. Communism was living
its triumphant years when I grew up there. My father was a party member,
and I was in the youth brigade. We young aristocrats of the working
class were escorted on journeys all around the country, to the mines,
and to the construction camps where the railways and the roads were
being built, so we could be filled with consciousness of the labours
undertaken on our behalf, and the splendours of the future awaiting us.
One result of this indoctrination is that I know my country well. But I
am unsure whether I should speak of it that way. It was not from there,
you see, that I came to Australia. I had made a visit to my father’s
relatives in Budapest – this was early 1956, when I was not quite
fifteen years old. I stayed in their family apartment, high up in a
grand building on Castle Hill; there were long, dark corridors; the
rooms were panelled, and from them there was a view across the river;
you could see the long barges making their way up and down. All through
the uprising I remained in the city, and afterwards as well, although my
father sent me urgent messages to come home, but he had not the faintest
notion of the things I had seen: the massed crowds in the streets, young
men shot down, their skulls smashed in; faces that were known to me. I
can still hear the echo from the gunshots ringing around our block. I
can see the bullet-holes – see them as they were being made, exploding
in straight lines, like sewing stitches – and that experience is one
that has stayed with me through the years. Whenever they blast, here,
today, deep underground, I can feel those bullets. I feel the pulse go
through me, I feel it in the soles of my feet – just the way they say
the Kalkadoon people who once lived here could feel the coming of a
stranger far distant from where they stood. So if you ask me whether I
remember the scenes of my childhood, and the castle, and those mines, my
answer is that there are other memories that have come to fill my
thoughts. Not that these things prey upon me: but I said to myself when
I came to this country that I would never go back home. You have to
choose your ground…but please…’ His voice,
which had been low and even, took on a note of concern; his face became
solicitous. ‘You won’t
have any…?’ While giving
this account of himself, he had contrived to eat his way through most of
my breakfast; a lone piece of half-charred buttered toast remained, and
when I shook my head he pounced on this last survivor and it too
vanished, stage by stage, into the corner of his mouth. ‘An unusual
tale for the morning in Outback Queensland,’ I said. ‘But there
are hundreds of us, you know, refugees of 1956, scattered throughout the
bush. I can give you addresses – in Quilpie, in Newman, or Broken
Hill. Come back tomorrow and I may even tell you the story of how I
reached Australia.’ As he left me,
he extended towards me a folded slip of paper. ‘Three
dollars and sixty cents’ he had written out at the foot of the
itemised account, which was signed with a little flourish: ‘Szelenyi
S., Prop.’ ” Earlier
in the story, we learnt how kite-hawks swooped down on the explorer
Leichhardt’s companion, ornithologist John Gilbert, in what seemed to
be an omen of his subsequent death at the hands of Aboriginal tribesmen.
In this extract, the hero has followed Leichhardt’s trail to the bank
of the Lynd River, where we again meet the birds of Fate. “In
the shade of some flowering grevilleas and ancient paperbarks I lay down
on the thick sand, which had been churned up everywhere by
cattle-hooves. Great dragonflies, with shimmering wings, hovered in
pairs before me. There were few signs of civilisation in the riverbed;
scoured and flattened aluminium cans, a shard or two of dark brown
bottle-glass and in the undergrowth close by a discarded cigarette pack,
lying beside a new-spun spider’s web. Along the causeway, ribbed iron
side-struts had been laid down to strengthen the concrete against the
force of wet-season floods – but these had long since been twisted out
of shape. Upon the far bank, a herd of Brahman wandered listlessly; at a
bend in the river, a half-rotted bullock carcass was outstretched. I
was turning, disconsolately, to climb the bank, when I had the sense of
someone watching me – or so I imagined for an instant. I shook my head
– all day, all through that drive in vacant country, when I should
have been most at peace and free from thought, I had been uneasy, on
some edge inside myself. It
was then that I heard a mewing call from one of the highest gum-trees
above the river: a quick, falling scale of notes, and a kite-hawk soared
above my head into the sky. Doubtless, I decided at once, it was a
descendant, many generations distant, of the birds that had followed
Leichhardt, and that were ever-present as the harpies of his
imagination. How, though, to make true contact with the thoughts of
those, like him, who have gone before us, whom we have lost, and those
still living, those passing from our lives, as all passes – ideas,
impressions, memories – until no solid thing remains? It was on the
Lynd, as I liked to read the story, that Leichhardt had gone through his
own stage of crisis and decision: had staked his life, right there upon
the river where I stood, in return for fame, for glory, and intimations
of the inland. And
what would I have wagered in his place, I wondered, as the kite-hawk
flew above me, then came to rest again, and gave its whistling, yelping
cries. What would have been dear enough to me for me to give my life? I
heard the bird’s calls, in their sharp, repeated pattern – a soft
note, and a series of falling cries, always three or four of them. Then,
at once, as if the landscape had just confessed its deepest secret to
me, I knew: I knew the wager, the game that the explorer played, a game
with the kite-hawk, of life and death. Three calls from the fatal bird
meant No to one’s desire; and four, Yes. Three calls, and he would
throw himself down; four, and he would live. He had made his pledge,
then listened for the kite-hawk: and the bird called out those four
cries, and cast its boundless shadow over him. Even
as these intuitions were running through my head, I had climbed my way
up the Lynd’s bank to the crest of a sand-cliff, where I paused, with
a steep drop to the rocks and pools below me, to catch my breath. My
heart was pounding; sweat dropped from my eyebrows; I was dazzled by the
sunshine, dazed from the heat, and from so long spent in that landscape,
driving, staring out at the horizon. This, then, was what I had been
journeying towards: the ragged bush; a silent river-channel; the
explorer’s trail of emptiness. I closed my eyes; the light was pulsing
against my eyelids. A pleasant, hazy faintness was stealing over me –
it strengthened. After a while I became conscious of a sound, like the
dry breeze inside the paperbarks. It came from a great distance, and it
was close beside me, a soft voice, murmuring the same words over and
over: ‘Your life is spread before you,’ it was saying – and as I
heard this, and made out the words, I felt a wave of sadness overwhelm
me. ‘All you ever wanted,’ it was saying. ‘Your life itself.’ Judgement
being passed on me. But whose – and why? Why now, so deep in the
stream of life; why here, out in the backblocks? How ridiculous the
whole thing was, how arbitrary. In
a calm, dismissive way, out loud I said: ‘With one thought, I could do
away with this’ – and even as I spoke, and heard my voice, and heard
the fear inside it, I understood the danger. Then,
very clearly, came the kite-hawk’s whistling call: that first call –
it seemed full of every warm and tender feeling I had ever felt, hope,
care, forgiveness – and, in quick succession, the short, descending
cries, one, two, three of them – only three – then nothing. Three
calls, for nothingness. ‘Three calls, and he would cast himself
down.’ I
listened, in the sudden silence, full of regret. And so, I whispered,
this, now, is the end of my journey. I closed my eyes, I leaned into the
bright abyss, and then above me, a fourth time – there had been, in
fact, only the briefest of intervals – the kite-hawk cried.”
Nicolas Rothwell
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